• Jun Yue

九九,久久/99 Years & Eternity


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那天是民国99年8月3日,我正在台湾高雄市,台湾的第二大城市。


每到一个陌生的地方,有三样东西总让我不忍错过:首先是自然美景,其次是历史、文化和艺术细节,再者就是美食小吃了。然而很多时候,在被美景冲击的次数太多之后,视觉审美会变得疲劳,但美食的诱惑力却总是丝毫不会减少。在到高雄之前,已经顺道去了美的令人心醉的日月潭和阿里山,视觉上已是无限陶醉。所以,在高雄的时候,口水早就痒痒的告诉我:“第一站:瑞丰夜市。”


那晚刚好无事,于是拿上相机、钞票和地图,快步走到离我的住地较近的五块厝捷运(地铁)站,准备搭乘地铁去巨蛋捷运站,瑞丰夜市就在那儿附近。台湾的八月非常湿热,到了晚上也不例外,我走得很快,觉得有些渴了,于是我在进地铁站之前买了一瓶矿泉水,喝上几口。

高雄的地铁目前只有两条线路,其复杂和全面程度远远赶不上香港和台北,但整洁的环境、井然有序的乘客、充满文化与艺术气息的设计与香港地铁还是不相上下的。每一站都有特定的设计主题,而且还会定期更换。在我坐车出发的五块厝站,当时的设计图案是形形色色的飞碟,我猜应该是配合暑期的学生科普活动所专门设计的。我一边欣赏那些可爱独特的小飞碟图案,一边沿着楼梯走到乘坐地铁的那层。


到了地铁层之后,列车还没有来,于是我掏出口袋里的地图,准备看一看我该乘坐那个方向的列车。可是我一掏出地图,发现杯具了!出门的时候太急,于是不小心在口袋里装进了台北地图,而不是高雄地图。我抬起头正准备寻找车站里的地图和标识的时候,发现对面走过来一位中年警察,正是传说中的“警察叔叔”。这下好了,直接问他就行了。如是我便迎上去。

“您好,请问去巨蛋站要做这边还是那边的列车呢?”这个中年警察皮肤黝黑、身体健硕、目光严肃,让我感到一种执法者特有的威严。他很客气的回答:“去巨蛋站,要在高雄车站转车的。” “嗯,我知道先要在高雄车站转车。到高雄车站应该坐那边的列车呢?”他指了一下说:“在这边。”

我微笑的对他说了声谢谢。我一边说谢谢,一边下意识的拧开了手中的矿泉水,小口抿了一口。警察叔叔本来是在很平静的说不客气,可是当他看到我喝水的那一刹那,他的表情突然在一瞬间,发生了剧烈的变化,他瞪大着眼睛看着我,似乎万分吃惊。

我被他突如其来的表情弄得有些无措,于是问了句:“怎么了?”只见他指着我手中刚放下的矿泉水瓶,认真严肃的说:“捷运站内不允许喝水,你不知道吗?” 我这才恍然大悟,终于明白了为什么警察叔叔刚刚那么吃惊的望着我。原来我刚刚竟当着他的面,大摇大摆的“违规犯法”呢!

其实我当然知道地铁站内和地铁列车上严禁喝水,香港也有这样的规定,在地铁列车上和地铁站的付费区内饮食的话,最高可被罚款港币1000元,如果是抽烟的话,最高可被罚款港币5000元。在美丽的高雄,我作为一个“外来人口”,只是迫不及待的想去著名的瑞丰夜市美食一餐,再加上刚刚一路走,走的很渴,于是条件反射似地,喝了口水,润润嗓子。只是没想到,竟然不偏不倚的当着警察叔叔的面,真是撞到枪口上了。

他话音刚落,我也顿时意识到自己犯了错,只好笑嘻嘻的解释,希望他能放我一马,当然最好不要把我夜宵的“经费”给充公了。“哦,不好意思,抱歉抱歉,今天是我在高雄的第一天,也是我这辈子第一次来高雄,我只是急着赶去传说中的瑞丰夜市,所以就一下子没注意,不好意思啊。” 警察叔叔听我说到这里,突然,他的表情有来了个180度大转弯,从刚刚的严肃无情,变成了“笑靥如花”。

“哦,这样啊!原来是客人啊?你从哪里来啊?”

“我从香港来,我是中国大陆人。”

“哇,中国大陆的朋友!欢迎欢迎啊!”警察叔叔似乎已经忘记我刚刚“非法喝水”的事情了。

他接着说:“那你傍晚有没有去85大楼?那里可以看到高雄的全景哦!今天有没有去旗津、驳二特区、城市光廊、玫瑰聖母堂?还有爱河、西子湾和真愛碼頭?晚上可以去坐船,非常漂亮的。我给你介绍啊,这几个地方...,还有...,...一定要去。....的刨冰超赞的。...”

他态度的巨大变化让我有些错愕,他突如其来的热情也让我有些难以招架。他刚刚那种执法者的严厉,突然间,变成主人对客人般热情温暖的招呼,又像是一位导游非常敬业的推介。我深吸了口气,清醒了一下,发现他任然是穿着警服的台湾警察。

说了几分钟,地铁还没有来。因为不是高峰时间,等车的乘客不多,列车发车的间隔也比较大。我在认真的听他介绍,还拿起手机,记下一些他重点推荐的地方。期间,我一边听他讲,一边没完没了的说:“谢谢!谢谢!谢谢!”。

终于,他介绍的差不多了,表情也恢复了平静。而我则对这个城市多了许多期待。接着,只见他从他的包中拿出一个类似于发票本的东西。我的心里顿时一怔,完了,要开罚单了。 “既然你第一次来高雄,那这一次就不对你进行处罚了,不过你以后要注意哦。地铁里严谨饮食,不仅高雄如此,台北也一样哦。”

“嗯!”我点了点头,“我一定会注意的。”我嘴角露出一丝微笑。他翻开罚单本,开始写。我在想,这个单是做什么用的呢“?不用紧张啊,我给你写一张劝导单,希望你能印象深刻,记住这个规定。”我接过单,仔细看了看。

列车来了,我不忘记“表扬”一下这位警察叔叔;“你们的工作真是细致,我会记住规定。这张单也是一份特殊的纪念啊!谢谢你!”我上了列车,警察叔叔挥手向我道别:“祝你在高雄过的愉快!” 冲着有这样的警察,我宁愿搬到高雄长住。他本没有职责、也没有义务对我说那么多话,这些话不会让他多领一分钱工资或奖金啊!

记得当年还在长沙教书的时候,有一次长沙要申请“文明城市”称号,结果没有成功。据说--只是据说,有待考证--原因是一位评审专家“微服私访”,从长沙南站上了一辆的士之后,发现司机不断骂脏话、向窗外吐口水,而司机也肯定不知道这个外地人是专家组的“便衣”,带着他多绕了一大圈,黑了那个专家不少钱。哎,似乎都毁在这司机大叔手里了。我们不禁问,这是巧合吗?这只是倒霉吗?

在台湾的日子里,我最深刻的感受就是台湾人民的自我认同。那座宝岛延续了中国传统文化的香火,所以一切善良、友好和真诚都来得那么自然。这都是中华名族的美德与根基啊。孙中山在1911年创建了“中华民国”,1912年2月15日,在他当选为中华民国临时大总统后,他率文武官员到明孝陵去祭拜。在他的《祭明太祖文》和《謁明太祖陵文》文中,都明确的包含这样一层意思:秦皇汉武、唐宗宋祖、康熙乾隆一直到他孙中山是和中华民族一脉相承的!也就是说,孙中山在推翻满清王朝的专职统治后,创建了亚洲第一个民主共和国,他既承认中华民族五千年的历史文明,又坚信他自己创立的“三民主义”和他创建的中华民国。

而“马列子孙”有着明显的不同,他们认宗的不是过去的历朝列宗,他们一个“反封建”就否定了一切,他们认宗的是千里之外的一个德国人,他们所主张的哲学以阶级斗争思想为指导,他们的游戏规则是将自然界残酷冰冷、唯利是图的“适者生存”搬到“人”的社会。这么一看,谁在骨子里是中华传统的延续,谁在骨子里是对中国传统的割裂,一目了然。说到底,“善”这一个字就能解释这个社会、我们身边几乎所有的问题。有它和缺它的社会,差别真是无比巨大,曾经体会过的人,都会有这样共同的感受。

今天是中华民国99年国庆,我虽已离开台湾,没有赶上在那里为她庆生。但与她的那段交集,让我如初恋般猛烈的爱上了这个宝岛,久久难以释怀。在我心中,她不再是历史书上那抽象的日月潭和阿里山,她是有血有肉有灵魂的岛屿。


 

It was August 3, R.O.C. Year 99, and I was in Kaohsiung, the second-largest city in Taiwan.


Whenever I visit an unfamiliar place, there are three things that I always can't miss: firstly, the natural beauty, secondly, the history, culture, and arts, and then thirdly the local cuisine and snacks. However, many times, after being hit by the beautiful scenery too many times, the visual aesthetics will become fatigued, but the temptation of food will always not be reduced in any way. Before arriving in Kaohsiung, I had already dropped by the mind-blowing beauty of Sun Moon Lake and Alishan Mountain and was already visually intoxicated. So, when I was in Kaohsiung, my mouth had long been itching to tell me: first stop - Ruifeng Night Market.


I had nothing to do that night, so I grabbed my camera, wallet, and map and walked quickly to the Wuzhuacuo MRT subway station, closer to where I lived. I prepared to take the subway to the Dome MRT station, where the Ruifeng Night Market is located nearby. August in Taiwan is very hot and humid, and at night it was no exception. I was walking fast and felt a little thirsty, so I bought a bottle of mineral water and took a few sips before entering the subway station.

Kaohsiung's subway currently has only two lines, and its complexity and comprehensiveness are nowhere near that of Hong Kong or Taipei, but the neat environment, orderly passengers, and cultural and artistic design are still on par with the Hong Kong subway. Each station has a specific design theme, and it changes regularly. At Wuzhacuo Station, the design at that time was flying saucers (UFO) of various shapes and sizes, which I guess was specially designed to coincide with the summer science activities for students. I admired those cute and unique little flying saucer designs while walking down the stairs to the level where I was going to ride the subway.


When I got to the subway level, the train had not yet arrived, so I took out the map in my pocket to see which direction I should take. But as soon as I pulled out the map, I found out that I had a problem. I was in such a hurry when I left the house that I accidentally put a map of Taipei in my pocket instead of a map of Kaohsiung. When I was about to look for the map and signs at the station, I noticed a middle-aged police officer walking nearby. I thought I could just ask him, which could be quick and easy.


"Hello, should I take this or that train to Dome Station?" This middle-aged policeman with his dark skin, sturdy body, and serious gaze made me feel a kind of majesty unique to law enforcement officers. He replied politely, "To go to Dome Station, you have to change trains at Kaohsiung Station." "Well, I know I have to transfer at Kaohsiung Station first. Which side should I wait for the train to Kaohsiung Station over there?" He pointed and said, "It's over here."

I smiled and said thank you to him. While saying thank you, I subconsciously unscrewed the mineral water in my hand and took a small sip. The police uncle was calmly saying you're welcome, but when he saw me drinking water that moment, his expression suddenly had a dramatic change in a flash. He looked at me with eyes wide open, seeming so surprised.

I was a little confused by his sudden facial expression, so I asked, "What's wrong?" I saw him pointing at the mineral water bottle I had just put down in my hand and he said seriously and solemnly, "Water is not allowed in MRT stations, don't you know that?" I finally understood why the police officer was looking at me with such surprise. It turned out that I had just "broken the law" right in front of him!

In fact, of course, I know that drinking water is strictly forbidden in subway stations and on subway trains, and Hong Kong also has such strict rules. In the beautiful Kaohsiung, I, as an "outsider", just can't wait to go to the famous Ruifeng Night Market for a meal, plus just walked all the way with a thirst for water, so I just reflexively sipped some water. I just didn't expect to be doing so right in the face of the police officer.

I immediately realized that I made a mistake, so I had to smile and explain, hoping that he can let me off the hook. I hope he would not confiscate the"funds" for my meal. "Oh, sorry, sorry, sorry, today is my first day in Kaohsiung, and also my first time in Kaohsiung in my life, I was just in a hurry to go to the legendary Ruifeng Night Market, so I just didn't pay attention. sorry." When the policeman heard me say this, suddenly his facial expression made a sharp U-turn, from the seriousness and ruthlessness just now to a kind smiling face.

"Oh! So you're a guest, huh? Where are you from?"

"I flew to Taiwan from Hong Kong, and I'm originally from mainland China."

"Wow, a friend from mainland China! Welcome!" The policeman seemed to have forgotten that I had just illegally drunk water.

He then said, "Have you been to the 85 building in the evening? You can see the panoramic view of Kaohsiung there! Did you go to Qijin, Barge 2 Special Zone, City Light Gallery, Lady of the Rosary Church? And the Love River, Xizi Bay, and True Love Pier? You can go on a boat ride at night, it's very beautiful. I will introduce you ah, to these places ... and..., ... Be sure to go... The shaved ice there is superb..."

The dramatic change in his attitude left me a little stunned, and his sudden enthusiasm was a little hard to resist. He was a stern law enforcement officer seconds ago, and suddenly transformed into a host greeting a guest with warm hospitality. He was also like a tour guide so dedicated to recommending good places. I took a deep breath and sobered up a bit, realizing that he was still a Taiwanese police officer in uniform.

After a few minutes of talking, the subway hadn't come yet. Because it was not rush hour, there were not many passengers waiting for the train and the interval between train departures was relatively long. I was listening carefully to his recommendation, and also picked up my phone, noting down some of the places he highlighted. I listened to him while saying endlessly, "Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!" Thank you!".

Finally, he had almost finished his recommendations, and he returned calmly. And I was looking forward to exploring a lot more about the city. Then, I saw him taking out an invoice book from his bag. My heart was stunned. It was over, I was going to be issued a ticket. "Since it's your first time in Kaohsiung, you will not be fined this time, but you should pay attention in the future. Strict food and drink ban not in the subway in Kaohsiung, but also in Taipei"

"Yes!" I nodded, "I'll definitely pay attention." A small smile appeared at the corner of my mouth. He flipped open the ticket book and started writing. I was thinking what was this ticket for? He said."Don't be nervous, I'll write you a reminder slip, I hope you'll be impressed and remember this rule." I took the sheet and looked at it carefully.

When the train came, I didn't forget to praise the police officer: "Your work is really meticulous, I will remember the rules. This sheet is also a special souvenir! Thank you!" When I got on the train, the police officer waved me goodbye: "Have a good time in Kaohsiung!" For the sake of having such a policeman, I would rather move to Kaohsiung for a long time. He would have had no duty or obligation to say so much to me, and these words would not have made him receive a penny more in salary or bonus!

I remember when I was a teacher in Changsha, the city applied for the honor title of "civilized city", but it was not successful. It was said that the reason is that a review expert paid an undercover visit. After boarding a cab from Changsha South Railway Station, he found that the cab driver kept swearing, spitting out of the window, and the driver certainly did not know that this visitor is from the review committee. The driver even took him on a big detour, scamming the expert a lot more money from the extended ride. People can not help but ask: Is this a coincidence? Is this just bad luck?

The most profound feeling I had during my time in Taiwan was the recognition of the self-identity of the Taiwanese people. That precious island continues the traditional Chinese culture, so all kindness, friendliness, and sincerity come so naturally. These are the virtues and roots of the Chinese nation. Dr. Sun Yat-sen founded the "Republic of China" in 1911, and on February 15, 1912, after he was elected as the provisional president of the Republic of China, he led the civil and military officials to pay homage at the Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum.


In his article "The Tribute to the Ming Emperor" and "The Tomb of the Ming Emperor", he explicitly stated that the Qin Emperor, Han Wu Emporer, the Tang Emperor, the Song Emperor, the Kangxi Emperor, the Qianlong Emperor, and Sun Yat-sen were all related to the Chinese nation. In other words, after overthrowing the Manchu dynasty and creating the first democratic republic in Asia, Sun Yat-sen recognized the 5,000-year history and civilization of the Chinese nation, and also firmly believed in the "Three Principles of the People" he founded and the Republic of China he created.

The followers of Marxism-Leninism are obviously different, they do not identify with the past dynasties; they deny everything with merely a slogan of anti-feudalism; they identify with a German guy thousands of miles away; they advocate a philosophy guided by the idea of class struggle; their rules of the game are to transfer the cruel and cold survival of the fittest of the natural world and the profit-oriented principles to the human society. At a glance, it is clear who in their bones are the continuation of Chinese tradition and who in their bones are the destroyers of Chinese tradition. In the end, the word "benevolence" can explain almost all the problems in this society and around us. The difference between a society with it and one without it is immense, and anyone who has ever experienced it will have this common feeling.

Today is the 99th National Day of the Republic of China, and although I have left Taiwan, I did not make it there in time to celebrate her birthday. But that encounter with her made me fall in love with this island of treasure as fiercely as my first love, and it was hard to let go of it for a long time. In my heart, she is no longer the abstract Sun Moon Lake and Alishan in the history textbooks, she is a living island with flesh, blood, and soul.


 

发布时间:2010-10-10 22:58:13

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