Taiwan.
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早上七点，我在台东富冈渔港等待开往绿岛的客船。
等船时，身旁的一个台湾姑娘告诉我，因为海浪很大，去绿岛的船可不是好坐的啊。我最初以为她只是随便说说，并没有多想，还很得意的跟她开玩笑说：“没事，不怕，我可是‘大风大浪’里过来的人，从小就有‘喜高症’，所以无论是玩跳楼机、海盗船还是过山车都感觉特好，坐船应该也没问题。”那姑娘听我这么一说，嘴角顿时露出一丝诡秘的微笑。
果然，当我坐上了船，才有机会见识什么是真正的“大风大浪”。几年前曾经从广东湛江坐船到海口，那艘船特别巨大，不仅可乘坐上千名乘客，还能装载数百辆汽车，所以风浪的效果不明显。而去绿岛的这艘船并不大，所以太平洋的风浪所制造出的颠簸超乎想象，绝对强过了我以前坐过的任何过山车、海盗船、跳楼机的效果。那只船根本不像水中的鱼儿那样悠游，而像只大鸟在不停地上冲、俯冲、翻腾。
不少人是第一次坐船去绿岛，可能都没有料到海浪竟会如此凶悍，也没有做好心理准备。全程一个半小时，客舱的场面异常壮观：“声嘶力竭”的尖叫声此起彼伏，全船80%的人抱着垃圾桶或提着塑料袋狂吐；19%的人表情痛苦、满脸是汗、“面目狰狞”的靠在座椅上；我是那剩下的1%。我在做什么？我拉着座椅靠背的扶手，跟随船的上下起伏移动不断的做“蹲起”运动，以双腿的屈伸来缓冲超级巨大的海浪颠簸。几个船员早已习惯这样的风浪，泰然自若的在聊天，他们看到我的举动，在一旁大笑。哎！为了不吐不晕，我也顾不了那么多了。
一个半小时过去，船终于在绿岛靠岸。我没晕，也没吐。只是，哎！腿软了。一个半小时不停地“蹲起”，腿不软才怪呢！下船之后挺后悔的，真还不如吐了算了。本打算徒步绿岛，无奈只好在绿岛租了一辆摩托车，骑着“电驴”环绿岛。
在此之前，绿岛给我的印象仅仅来自于那首悠扬情歌《绿岛小夜曲》，而这次绿岛之行，让我认识了一个完全不同的绿岛。
《绿岛小夜曲》描绘了一个美丽温情的绿岛：
「这绿岛像一只船，
在月夜里摇呀摇，
姑娘哟你也在我的心海里飘呀飘，
让我的歌声随那微风，
吹开了你的窗帘，
让我的情意随那流水，
不断地向你倾诉。
椰子树的长影，
掩不住我的情意，
明媚的月光更照亮了我的心，
这绿岛的夜已经这样沉静，
姑娘哟，你为什么还是默默无语。」
然而事实上，绿岛半个世纪来的功能和作用却全然没有歌曲里的美丽与温情，从绿岛的另一个“凶险”的名字--“火烧岛”，就能看出几分端倪。由于海洋筑起了天然的城墙，让绿岛成了设置监狱的最佳地点。近百年以来，岛上陆续设立不同属性的监狱。早在1911年（明治44年）日本人就在岛上建立了「火烧岛浮浪人收容所」，这是岛上的第一所监狱。1950年以后，陆续设立了各种各样、名目众多的监狱，火烧岛于是变成了监狱的代名词，如同「恶魔岛」一般的神秘。
将犯人监禁到边远的孤岛，许多国家都有这样的先例，而绿岛也就成为当时监狱第一首选的岛屿。台湾原为日本殖民地，之后经历二次大战，国民政府撤退到台湾。经历过1947年的228事件动乱后，1949年5月19日国民党政权宣布台湾自翌日起戒严，一直到1987年7月15日解除戒严。
这长达38年的戒严历史也是台湾的血泪史：人民的生命、财产、自由权利遭受剥夺，平民在戒严军法审判体制下，被以“匪谍”、“叛乱”的罪名判罪，“政治犯”被逮补、审判、酷刑、监禁、释放、并被社会监控。但是，在这期间，台湾人民依然不放弃信念与希望，用生命与青春争取自由权、社会权、经济权，追求平等、正义、民主、自由。这个过程建构了今日的台湾人权史，也造就了台湾今日民主与自由的面貌。
也正因为如此，很久以来人们盛传《绿岛小夜曲》的歌词是罪犯在绿岛的狱中情书，原本要用在一部电影中，但是没有成功，想不到菲律宾的万国唱片看上这首歌，把它灌成唱片后引进到菲律宾，并立刻在当地十分风行起来，甚至还流传到马来亚、印尼一带。马来亚的报纸还绘影绘形地描述，说这首歌原来是一名争风吃醋的杀人犯在狱中写给女友的一封情书，情意感人。在那个信息不发达的年代，这首充满凄美故事的流行歌曲，博得了许多人的同情，而且广为流传，大家都以为这个故事是真的。
而事实并非如此，这首歌是由当年台湾中央广播公司音乐组的两位主持人共同创作的。这首歌在台湾的“戒严时代”可谓是颇为敏感，因为它像是在为绿岛的囚犯表达一种同情，所以两位主持人也曾经受过当局的调查，但并没有发现他们有任何问题。随后，有更多的歌星演唱了这首歌，使这首歌变得更加流行，并且曾经一度成为台湾印象的代表之一，许多远在他乡的台湾人聚会时，都会共同大声合唱，来表达对于家乡的思念。
台湾当局对于当年戒严时代所犯的错误也一直没有停止反思。1999年12月10日，绿岛人权纪念碑于落成，纪念白色恐怖时期政治受难者。碑上的人名经由受难者同意铭刻上去。象征那个时代每一位受难者走过人权之路，每一个人都有一个动人故事。
这就是绿岛，一个值得记住的名字。这就是《绿岛小夜曲》，至今仍被许多人传唱。无关情与爱，却是一段人权历史的永恒象征。
我骑着租来的摩托车，在绿岛转了两圈。抛去政治与历史不谈，绿岛的景色真是美得让人心醉。不过，当年那些犯了“莫须有”罪名的“罪犯”们，他们有心情来欣赏这般迷人美景吗？他们的心中应该有更广阔的天地吧！
傍晚，我依然坐着同样的一艘船返回台东，我依然又是不间断的“蹲起”了一个半小时。无论是晕倒、狂吐还是腿软，人生，总会有痛苦，那就选择一种自己更“喜欢”的痛苦，痛并快乐着吧！
At 7:00 am, I was waiting for the passenger boat to Green Island at Fugang Fishing Port in Taitung City.
While waiting for the boat, a Taiwanese girl beside me told me that the boat to Green Island was not a good ride because of the big waves. I initially thought she was just saying and did not think much of it, but also very proud to joke with her, "It's okay, and I am not afraid. I've got used to "big wind and big waves" in life, and since childhood, I've developed a mania for high places, so I really enjoy playing Jumpers, pirate ships, or roller coasters, and the boat should also be no problem for me." The girl heard me say so, and the corners of her mouth immediately revealed a secret smile.
Sure enough, I sat on the boat, only to have the opportunity to see what is the real "big wind and big waves. A few years ago I traveled from Zhanjiang to Haikou in China by ship, but the ferry ship is particularly huge. It could not only take thousands of passengers but was also loaded with hundreds of cars, so the effect of wind and waves was not obvious at all. But this boat to Green Island is not very big, so the Pacific Ocean wind and waves created bumps beyond imagination, definitely stronger than the effect of any roller coaster, pirate ship, or jumping machine that I had previously ridden. The boat is not at all like the fish in the water as leisurely swim, but like a big bird in a constant dash, dive, tumble.
Many people going to Green Island by boat for the first time can not imagine how fierce the waves can be, and they tend to be not mentally prepared. The whole trip was an hour and a half, and the cabin scene was spectacular: hoarse screams were heard one after another; 80% of the people on the boat were holding trash cans or carrying plastic bags and throwing up; 19% of the people had painful facial expressions, sweaty faces, and grimaces leaning back in their seats. I was the remaining 1%. What was I doing? I was pulling on the armrests of the seat back, following the up and down movement of the ship, and doing constant "squatting" exercises to cushion the super huge waves with the flexion and extension of my legs. A few crew members have long been accustomed to such wind and waves, calmly chatting, they saw my actions, laughing on the side. Oops! In order not to vomit and not be dizzy, I couldn't care so much.
An hour and a half passed and the boat finally docked at Green Island. I didn't get dizzy, and I didn't throw up. But my legs became weak, exhausted, and extremely sore after one and a half hours of non-stop squatting. I regretted it after I got off the boat, I might as well have thrown up. I originally planned to hike on Green Island, but I had no choice but to rent a scooter so I can ride an "electric donkey" around Green Island.
Before that, my impression of Green Island only came from the melodious love song "Green Island Serenade", but this trip to Green Island let me know a completely different Green Island.
The "Green Island Serenade" depicts a beautiful and warm Green Island:
"This Green Island is like a boat,
rocking in the moonlit night,
and you, girl, are floating in the sea of my heart,
let my song follow the breeze,
blowing open your curtains,
let my love follow the flowing water,
and keep telling you.
The long shadow of the coconut tree
can't hide my feelings,
the bright moonlight illuminates my heart,
the night of Green Island has been so quiet,
girl, why are you still silent."
However, in reality, the function and role of Green Island for half a century is not as beautiful and warm as in the song, which can be seen in the other fierce name of Green Island: "Fire-burning Island". Because the ocean is like natural prison bars, Green Island has become the perfect place to set up a prison. Over the past hundred years, prisons of different kinds have been established on the island one after another. As early as 1911 (Meiji 44), the Japanese built the first prison on the island, the "Fire Island Floaters' Shelter," and after 1950, a variety of prisons were established, making Fire Island a synonym for prison, as mysterious as Alcatraz.
Many countries had precedents for imprisoning prisoners on remote islands, and Green Island became the first choice for prisons at that time. Taiwan was originally a Japanese colony, and then the Nationalist government retreated to Taiwan after World War II. After the turmoil of the 228 incident in 1947, the Nationalist regime declared martial law in Taiwan on May 19, 1949, and continued until July 15, 1987, when it was lifted.
This 38-year history of martial law is also a history of Taiwan's blood and tears: people were deprived of their lives, property, and freedom, civilians were convicted of espionage and "rebellion" under the martial law trial system, and political prisoners were arrested, trialed, tortured, imprisoned, released, and put under social surveillance. During that period, however, the people of Taiwan never gave up their faith and hope and spent their lives and youth fighting for freedom, social rights, and economic rights, and pursuing equality, justice, democracy, and freedom. This process has built the history of human rights in Taiwan today and has created the foundation of democracy and freedom in Taiwan today.
The lyrics of "Green Island Serenade" have long been rumored to be a love letter from a convict in prison on Green Island, originally intended to be used in a movie, but it was not successful. The Malayan newspapers also described the song as a love letter from a jealous murderer to his girlfriend in prison, which was very touching. In those days of underdeveloped information, this popular song, full of poignant stories, won the sympathy of many people and was so widely circulated that everyone thought the story was true.
The song was co-written by two hosts of the music group of Taiwan's Central Broadcasting Company. The song was very sensitive during the "martial law era" in Taiwan, as it seemed to express sympathy for the prisoners on Green Island, so the two hosts were investigated by the authorities, but they were not found to have any problems. Subsequently, more singers sang the song, making it more popular and at one point it became one of the representatives of Taiwan's impressions, and many Taiwanese who were far away from home would sing it loudly together when they gathered to express their longing for their homeland.
On December 10, 1999, the Green Island Human Rights Memorial was inaugurated to commemorate the political victims of the White Terror. The names on the monument were inscribed with the consent of the victims. It symbolizes the path of human rights that each of the victims took during that era, and each one has a moving story.
This is Green Island, a name to remember. This is the "Green Island Serenade," which is still sung by many people today. It is not about love and affection, but a timeless symbol of the history of human rights.
I rode around Green Island twice on a rented scooter. Politics and history aside, the scenery of Green Island is truly enchanting. However, those "criminals" who committed "trumped-up" crimes back then, were they in the mood to enjoy this stunning scenery? There must be a wider world in their hearts!
In the evening, I still took the same boat back to Taitung, and I still "squatted" for an hour and a half without interruption. Whether it's fainting, vomiting, or weak legs, there will always be a pain in life, so just choose a pain that you like.
发布时间：2010-08-21 20:16:27
本页链接：https://www.yuejun.org/post/green-island-of-taiwan-serenade-and-human-rights
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